꼭 붙는 "아주 섹시"molto sexy룩이 여전히
유행할 것이라고,보다 관능적이고 덜 번적거리는 쪽으로
Bright future for Italian fashion
 Domenico Dolce, left, and Stefano Gabbana this week celebrated the 20th anniversary of their label. | |
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MILAN, Italy (AP) -- Italian designers seem keen on a fresh start.
Far from the mainly black, body-clinging sexy look that has defined Italian style for more than a decade, the Milan fashion week for the Spring-Summer 2006 season is full of white, Mediterranean colors and frilly girlish styles.
"It is a time to look toward the future, without denying the past," Miuccia Prada said backstage after her Tuesday evening show that featured dresses in the designer's signature minimalist style.
This forward-looking vision recently earned Prada a place on the list of seven designers Vogue magazine singled out for taking fashion into the future -- the only Italian on the list.
"It's about redesigning a point of view," said Stefano Gabbana, of the Dolce&Gabbana duo, whose style by their own definition has always been "molto sexy."
On Thursday the pair celebrated 20 years on the fashion scene with a megaparty for more than 1,000 guests featuring a performance by pop singer Donna Summer and a show in their brand new venue, an ex-movie house in downtown Milan. (Full Story)
The new space marks a new beginning and a new style. "The look is more sensual, but less flashy," Gabbana said at a breakfast chat with reporters Wednesday.
The all-white, short-but-sweet second-line D&G collection featuring lacy corseted mini dresses adorned with demure satin ribbons presented Monday, was the first hint the designers were taking some of the heat off their traditionally steamy clothes.
The mirrored walls at the Prada studio where the show was held reflected the outfits on the catwalk but also created a disorienting feeling of infinite space.
"The mirrors reflect a sense of displacement in today's fashion, a lack of clear vision," Prada said after the show.
But the clothes were aimed at a self-assured client who has her fashion feet firmly on the ground, despite the wobbly bamboo platform sandals.
Who else could match a pristine, cream-colored, intricately embroidered dress, neatly hemmed at the knee, with wrinkled black wool stockings? Or if she had any fashion doubts, would Prada dare to splash plaster in squiggly designs on her beautiful gown, or wear glossed canvas as if it were pure silk?
The big leather bag clutched firmly under her arm clinches the determined look.
Earlier Tuesday, French designer Christian Lacroix said "ciao" to his Mediterranean experience, after three years as designer for the Pucci label, founded by the late Florentine count Emilio more than half a century ago.
Lacroix's last Pucci collection embraces the upbeat warm weather feel of this round of showings, mixing cheerful prints with sailor stripes on everything from a swim suit to a tunic dress or a cozy cardigan.
The only mildly aggressive note in the soft and sunny collection were the gladiator sandals accompanying the outfits.
Giorgio Armani, who showed Wednesday in the theater of his downtown Milan headquarters, looked toward the future by reinventing his past of beautifully tailored feminine styles.
In one of his best collections in many a season, the maestro presented short jackets with delicate shoulders, over soft silk skirts. Classic trousers were as feminine as could be. The Armani palette was at it's purist, starting with the staple cream and pearl gray to climax with Armani's favorite -- lipstick red.
But it was in the evening wear that Armani excelled, offering delicately ruffled and flounced gowns in floral prints highlighted by intricate embroidery. Eccentric hats ranging from bird nest to a bouquet of silk roses pepped up the romantic look.
"Some of those dresses are works of art. I'd be happy to just have them in my closet and let somebody else wear them," Tina Turner said after the show. The pop singer joined actress Sophia Loren and American rapper 50 Cent as front row guest at the show.
Armani picked fashion week to announce the purchase of the other half of the former Nestle's factory, where his headquarters is located. The added space will be renovated by Tadao Ando, the Japanese architect who designed the present headquarters. The new space is 258,336 square feet and includes a large garden area.
Gucci's Frida Giannini had nowhere to go but forward. Wednesday evening marked the young Roman's first show for the house that has been searching for the right designer since Tom Ford's huffy departure last year.
The overall look was fresh and feminine. For daytime, Giannini favored jackets with a hint of puff at the shoulder over slim pants cropped at the ankle to reveal patent leather boots.
The cocktail hour came in a series of dresses in monochrome or printed silk, with a V neckline that goes straight to the waist and has a matching V in the back. The floor-length evening wear favored the same geometric cutout.
The new Gucci footwear includes a high-heeled ankle-strapped platform sandal in green suede, reminiscent of a style favored by Karl Lagerfeld, longtime designer for Fendi, where Giannini took her first fashion steps.
"I have worked very hard, slept very little, and now we shall see," Giannini said on the eve of the show.
The warm round of applause from the crowd at the end of the 15-minute presentation, bodes well for the future.
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